Saturday, June 30, 2018

Day 39: Sun 1 Jul – Barkly HR to Devils Marbles

Drive: 320km; Total towed: 4212km

11-26 deg C 

We were both awake just after 5am which was really 5:30am; might take a few days to get used to the new time zone. Not to worry, we dressed and did our stretches and core exercises before heading off for a walk. It was still dark so Wendy took her headtorch on her walk. The runway was all lit up and whilst Greg went all the way to the other end, Wendy turned back at the start.

We were all ready for an 8am departure and Greg had pulled into the fuel station to wait whilst waiting for Wendy to complete the check out. On her return to the van Wendy heard her name being called out; her cousin once removed, Ryan Squires, just happened to be refuelling and cleaning his windscreen and saw Wendy. So, we had a chat and rang Wendy’s cousin, Jenny, Ryan’s mum as it is her birthday today. She was just as surprised as we were. An obligatory photo was taken and we left at 8:15am. Ryan had to get back to Mt Isa for work tomorrow and had already had a big weekend of driving to recover a motorbike for a friend of his. 

Back on the road, we stopped just before Tennant Creek at Mary Ann Dam for two things – mornos and to fill up our water tanks for a night at Devil’s Marbles – another no water, no power camp. Not free, but at only $3.30 per adult per night, it was very close to being free. So, this is our fifth night of off-grid caravanning. Whilst Greg loves it, Wendy is still getting used to the idea of not having endless water. Power has not really been an issue to date as the days have been really sunny so the solar is earning its keep. 

After a quick refuelling stop in Tennant Creek, we arrived at Devil’s Marbles just before 1pm and after setting up we had lunch. We then set off to do one of the walks around the ‘complex’. We started off with the longest – a 4km walk with a difficulty score of “easy”. We then incorporated three other walks to finish the day with 4.8km. We have one walk left to do which we will try and do in the morning before leaving. As we were coming back to camp, we saw that G&Y had arrived so stopped in briefly to say hello. Unfortunately, they were not able to get a spot next to, or even near us, but did manage to get a spot up the back of the park. 

The rest of the afternoon was spent relaxing – reading, sorting photos and writing the words for the blog.

Y&G came down to our spot for pre-dinner drinks and they were already primed – they had had a few with their neighbours; at least they had nice neighbours to have drinks with. On one side of us, all they did was tune their Sat dish so they could watch TV all afternoon and night, and the other side were cranky with us because they perceived we had taken one of their sites (they are travelling with two other couples and wanted to be next to each other). They had however, come from the back of the camp as if they were leaving so had obviously come into to see if there were any better sites, and by the time they came back out, we had taken one of “their” spots. He was not a happy chappy, and to top it off had broken a spring on his caravan suspension. We were not surprised as the way he drove in and out of the site was like a real cowboy. Anyway, we are happy with our spot. 

After dinner and nice hot showers, it wasn’t long before we were both in bed. 


Runway lights at Barkly Homestead Roadhouse
Sunrise at BRH taken at 6:19am
Sunrise
Sunrise
Wendy and Ryan
We went left



These signs are normally yellow, perhaps orange is more suited to the NT?

The walks availabe at Devils Marbles














A Desert Frog and a Crab live here
Looks like a bottom
How the rock eventually turns to dust
Onion skin weathering - helps break up the rosk

From front-on - looks a little phalic
From side on - looks like a beer or pregnant belly
Swallow nests


Camp spot at Devils Marbles

Our spot at Karlu Karlu Campground at Devils Marbles


Walks 1, 2, 3, and 5
Sunrise at BRH taken at 6:25am

Mornos at Mary Ann Dam

Friday, June 29, 2018

Day 38: Sat 30 Jun – Mt Isa to Barkly Homestead Roadhouse

Drive: 453km; Total towed: 3892km

14-27 deg C 

We were on the road by 8:15am after re-filling the water tanks in preparation for our “free camping” over the next few days. Once we left the mountains and hills behind, the scenery was flat but varied due to the changing country sides. We didn’t see any live kangaroos today, but plenty of dead ones. We saw a few herds of cattle on the sides of the unfenced parts of the highway and one or two dead ones as well. We were reminiscing about the last time we were on this road; in Jan 1998 we drove two vehicles up to Darwin from Brisbane, and in 2000 we drove one car down to Sydney. Whilst we have both been back to Darwin since, it has been by plane. 

Mornos was at Camooweal which was probably once a thriving outback town near the QLD/NT border. We refuelled the truck with relatively cheap fuel and then found a quiet back street where we made our coffees to go in the van and left. We were hoping to make it to Barkly Homestead for lunch, however the rather gusty cross-wind made going a bit slow so we stopped in the middle of nowhere and had our salads. 

We were checked-in ($30) to the unpowered zone of the Barkly Homestead Roadhouse van park just after 2:30pm and went for a walk to orientate ourselves and stretch the legs. We were surprised at the number of powered sites there are and although quite close to the generator, would have been a suitable alternative as there was only $8 difference in price. Wendy reckons if you have to pay that much for an unpowered and unwatered site, you may as well stay in a free camp, especially when you include the dinner price! Or pay the extra $8 and have relative comfort. 

Pre-dinner drinks were had with G&Y before making our way to the pub for dinner. We had forgotten we were in the NT and were supposed to turn our clocks back 30 minutes, but still got to eat about 6:30pm NT time. We both had the Barkly Pie which had a base of creamy mashed potato and mushy peas with chunky meat on top, all covered with a large pastry crust and gravy. We were both really hungry but this was a BIG meal. Greg had to finish Wendy’s for her. The short walk back to the van was really not enough to settle dinner, but we were so full we couldn’t waddle any further. 


Leaving Mt Isa




A windmill seemingly in the middle of nowhere

Crossing the border from QLD into NT


A sign reminding us the "headwinds increase fuel consumption" and indeed it did

Our new speed limit, it used to be unlimited when we were posted here in1998
Barkly Homestead Roadhouse
Barkly Homestead Roadhouse
Barkly Homestead Roadhouse
Our bit of dirt at Barkly Homestead Roadhouse, no power, no water, but a strong wind - note the table prtecting the fridge gas pilot light from going out

Mornos at Camooweal

Wrap-up and Reflections

What a fantastic trip; we finally got to the Gulf of Carpentaria, Red Centre and the Big Rock. Despite it being mid-winter, it didn’t stop u...